A Life of Spice

Three things I love about New York

I was in NYC last week for meetings with my editors and I have to say I love NYC. Not to be cliched but the city has such vibrancy and such energy and I truly never know what I will find around the corner. The trip started on a funny note. I always take the Acela into NYC from DC. Well, i arrived at the train station at around 5:30 am for my six am train. As I sat down to sip my coffee and await the boarding announcement, I glanced over at the gate for the NYC train. Just above the gate, a touch to the left, was a banner that said simply - CIVILIZATION. I had to smile. I do love NYC.

So my three things for this trip are -- 

On this trip, i visited TriBeCa and ended up staying at the (almost) brand new Duane Street Hotel. It is a small (45 rooms) luxury hotel that is very chic and classy. I just loved my room - i felt as though I were staying in at a friend's well-appointed loft. Tastefully decorated, my room had comfy, snuggly bed, very contemporary slate bathrooms and expansive windows. A strange thing happened when I took a shower in the bathroom- either I was really tired and hallucinating or the the bathroom smelled like the earth does after rains - earthy and wonderful  I arrived late at night and could not take advantage of their restaurant which is closed for dinner so I wandered around the neighborhood and found a place I instantly liked.

Around the corner from the hotel, I found a mostly empty street but my cabbie had given me a tip earlier to walk a block to a place called the Pakistani Tea House (176 Church St between Duane and Reade Sts). (Incidentally, he was swearing on the phone in Hindi and telling his friend on the other end not to swear because an Indian who spoke Hindi was seated in his cab). Accompanied by a dear friend, I entered the tiny little restaurant and was immediately hungry after smelling the aroma of warm tandoori naan, spicy lamb curry and spinach. Yum. For less than ten bucks, I got a full meal (warmed in the microwave) of lightly spiced curries and tandoor-fresh naans that tasted  simply delightful.

I decided to take a different mode of transportation while in the city this time (in addition to cabs and the subway). I tried the man-drawn rickshaws. These guys are fast and zip around the traffic with no fear - I tell you, I must have heard people around us shout out the *F* word in atleast ten different accents! The tourists in buses all waved to me as if I were some sort of a showpiece. I did not realize until later how expensive they were.

Finally, my third love of this trip. i discovered, quite by accident, a place called "Crazy Bananas"  that serves fat-free frozen yogurt with unsual flavors - I had the pomegranate raspberry yogurt topped with lychees, mangoes and golden raspberries. Fantastic!

Top 3 indulgent cookbooks, May 2008

(Note to self -I really need to do this more often!)

This week's books are so different from each other that you will wonder why I selected them. One simple reason-€“ they are luscious. Filled to the brim with flavors that will make you want to run to the nearest store and stock up so you can cook, each one of these books is nothing short of indulgent. Whether you cook in the kitchen or love to read books in your armchair, this week's selections will make you hungry. Trust me on that.

1. Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes: Recipes from the Modern Kitchen Garden by Jeanne Kelly - You know the saying, “Never judge a book by the cover”? Well, this book is one that that defies that saying and succeeds. A gorgeous cover with promises of spring opens to reveal a spectacular collection of recipes by an obviously talented author. Ms. Kelly’s recipes are so inviting – as I read through the book, I kept thinking- I should make that this week, oh and that one on Sunday, oh and that when Janet comes over. The recipes are inviting not only because of the gorgeous pictures but also because they offer simple ingredient lists and the instructions are clear and easy to follow.   In particular, the Hummus with Jalapeno-Cilantro pesto, Black beans with orange and chipotle, and Asparagus and peas with green garlic – YUM. All this and desserts too! You simply will not go wrong with this book. I think it is also a perfect mom’s day gift.
2. Mantra – The Rules of Indulgence by Jehangir Mehta – If you have ever wanted to see behind the scenes of how an innovative, genius chef works, get this book NOW. The understated cover under-promises what lies inside – a treasure trove of new flavors – Jasmine glazed doughnuts, Chamomile Macaroons, Dill Ice-cream, Aloe-Chestnut Consommé and Cucumber water! Even the layout is different – the sections are not your standard – Appetizer, entrees etc but are divided into – Flowers, Fruits/Vegetables/Roots/Bulbous Stalks/Rhizomes and Leaves/Herbs/Spices. I have to confess, after reading the book, I made plans to head to NYC next month and visit this chef’s restaurant. If he creates this well on paper, I really want to see and taste what he does in person. (PS – I think this book is not for the beginner.
3. 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer -  I have always enjoyed Raghavan’s books so when this one came out, I ordered it right away. It lives up to its promise to be extensive and very intense! This book will make you rethink the word and concept of “curry.” Yes, there are traditional dishes like Mangalorean Chicken Curry with tamarind and coconut milk, Slow cooked creamy black lentils with whole spices and Eggplant with roasted chiles and tomatoes. But, ah, there is so much more – Cashew stuffed baby eggplant, Eggplant with apples and fennel, Unripe mango with pigeon peas, Cauliflower and spinach in a black-pepper-coconut milk sauce.. I could go on and on, there are over 600 recipes in this collection (as the title suggests.) Oh and for the lovers of Bend it Like Beckham, there is a lovely recipe for “Bolly Cauli” the cauliflower dish the heroine of the movie is, um, forced to make! It is an in-depth, practical and highly comprehensive book. Bravo!

To all three authors --€“ here is an open invitation. Come to DC and cook for us! I would love to host a book signing for your indulgent cookbooks. Well-done!

3 meals to perk up your spirits, April 2008

DC has been rainy and dull and really dreary for the past few weeks and the weather has taken a toll on my mood! I really felt I needed some cheering up and so I decided to spend sometime investigating some new places to dine.

1. Cafe Mozu - Located in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Cafe Mozu was a delight for lunch. A friend and I sat (sipping their pomegranate champagne of course) at a table with a large window overlooking the Jefferson Memorial and some gorgeous cherry blossom teas along the waterfront. Their service is very attentive. I loved their sea bass while my friend could not stop raving about their Cherry Blossom Bento box. It had, among other things, amazing white asparagus soup, wagyu beef  an amazing fried filet of hapuku with oyster mushrooms, bok choy, and sweet and sour sauce, and a cherry blossom crème brulee. Be sure to save room for dessert while you are here!

2. Cafe Du Parc - I loved the bustling energy in this cafe located adjacent to and part of the Willard Hotel. I really enjoyed their tapas appetizer with mussels in a vinegary marinade and spicy glazed chicken wings. I have to say that their capucchino was excellent (and actually served hot as opposed to many places where it is served very lukewarm and quickly cools to taste like cold water with flavor!)  I noticed they had some outdoor seating as well. I cannot wait to go back here and enjoy their lovely madelines and coffee under a hot DC sun.

3. Oya - It has been many years since I have eaten at Oya and I am sorry I waited that long. SOme friends and I shared a memorable meal at the chic restaurant. What made it memorable -- some fine wine (served with pride and gusto by Andrew Stover), lovely entrees like a perfectly cooked seabass and a sinful bread pudding, a glittering white fireplace warming us all night and great company. I just loved this place.  (Oh, dont forget to try their signature cocktails prepared with soju - a Korean spirit prepared from sweet potaotes. )

Young, talented and spirited - Chefs to watch in DC, Feb. 2008

Recently there have been a slew of young chefs in DC really taking the culinary scene to new levels. Under 35 and working magic in their kitchens, I thought I would post about four of my favorite chefs (I need to change the name of this category from best 3 to best 5… clearly!) --

Johnny Monis of KOMI – He is still well-under 30 and easily serving some of the best Greek food in the city. The food critic of the Washington Post cannot stop gushing about this young man and his talent –“Months after I sampled them, the lovely vitello tonnato, the extraordinary wood-roasted pigeon and the pappardelle tossed with a sweet ragu of baby goat lingered in my food fantasies.” These days the only way to get a table most nights is to make a reservation. He loves to take reservations himself on the phone and is known to change the menu daily! The menu is Greek inspired but very unpretentious. My experience - We started our meal with an amuse from the chef – a warm date stuffed with melting hot mascarpone then speckled with sea salt crystals. Then, in a tiny little wooden box, the chef’s signature crackers ( sesame, paprika, and asiago with thyme) are served in lieu of bread. My appetizer was a sweet, salty, peppery yet delightful watermelon slab topped with feta cheese and mature arugula. A fritto misto, being served for the first time last night, showcased deep fried soft shell crabs, cod fritters and clam fritters. It was served along with a lemon aioli (for the cod) and a red dip (with almonds, breadcrumbs and orange) for the clam.

Anthony Chittum of Vermillion was noted by Forbes magazine as one of the best chefs in the country. Until recently 30 year-old Chittum was cooking up Italian delights at Notti Bianche. Born on Kent Island on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, Tony Chittum spent his youth fishing on the Chesapeake Bay where he learned from local fishermen how to prepare the native crab and rockfish. His food makes me think of romance – here is a chef who is in love with his ingredients and not afraid to show it. Each dish is lovingly plated and satisfies the soul.

Tony Conte at Oval Room -- I associate 34 year-old Conte with roasted beets! His signature at Oval Room are Roasted Baby Beets with Passion Fruit Gelee, Horseradish & Icewine Mignonette appetizer at the Oval Room on Connecticut Avenue. It is a uniquely flavored dish (red, yellow and candy-Striped beets!!)  with a sharp taste of horseradish. The chef tells me it is the most popular dish on the menu. The flavors of the beets with the tanginess of the passion fruit gelee and the sharpness of the horseradish really give it a striking taste. It also makes one beautiful presentation on the place. Conte worked as the executive sous chef at four-star Jean Georges.   Chef Conte’s impressive resume also includes a stint as the chef de partie at JoJo, a contemporary French restaurant also owned by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and a turn as executive chef and co-owner of Pesce in Branford, Connecticut, where, during his tenure, the restaurant earned Connecticut Magazine’s “Best New Restaurant 2002” and Taste of Nation’s “Golden Fork Award” Best Food in Show 2001.

Barton Seaver  at Hook – I ate at Hook last week. Everyone at my table swore that it was probably one of the best seafood meals they had ever had. The chef, 28, in jeans looked so comfortable in his kitchen as he walked around and worked his way through the orders. I just wonder what he will do when he is 40. His sablefish with sweet almond milk is one of the best seafood dishes I have ever eaten – no two ways about it. He is definitely a chef to watch and I predict wonderful things in his future. Seaver has been a StarChefs.com Rising Star of 2006 and a Rising Star Chef nominee by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington.

After experiencing The Source in Washington DC, this is Wolfgang Puck's first signature restaurant in Washington DC, I had to update this list. Executive Chef Scott Drewno, deserves a place of honor on this list. His cooking makes you want to run out shouting -- Have you eaten here? Have you tasted what this young man is cooking up? If you have not, you are missing a lot. He does magic with his braised Kobe short ribs and the wok fried bass served tableside with a couple of different sauces makes you wonder if he really does have a magical food wand.

Best Indian Restaurants in DC, January 2008

Almost every week I get an email from readers asking about my favorite Indian restaurants in DC, so I finally decide to make a list and post it here.  I know this is a top three category but I have more than three favorites and so here they are --

(Also, one of my all time favorite places, The Bombay Club, celebrates 20 years this year - 2008! That is a major accomplishment for any restaurant. Hats off to Ashok Bajaj, owner and all-round winner.)

Top 4 – Upscale

Indique Heights (2 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase; 301-656-4822) After tantalizing Washingtonians with unique takes on coastal Indian food, the owners of Indique did it again with Indique Heights. This stylish new Indian restaurant in metro Washington, DC serves magnificent coastal Indian food. An inviting interior boasts custom-made Indian wood furniture, classical Indian artwork, fuchsia and burnt orange silk window coverings, and vibrant red, green, and silver glass patterns on the ceiling. An elegant white marble fountain graces the swanky dining room. I love their lavender-hued pomegranate martini. My favorite dish is their signature fiery Syrian lamb with cardamom and coconut. Chef Vinod K.N’s expertise in southern Indian cooking can be experienced in the Calamari Ullarthiyathe a spicy preparation of calamari with shallots, ginger, hot peppers and mustard seeds; in the mussels stewed in gently spiced coconut milk; in the fiery hot chicken Chettinand cooked in toasted telecherry peppercorns, coriander and anise. And save room for the best gulab jamun in town (flambéed at your table).

Rasika (633 D Street NW; 202-637-1222) Shimmering silk panels, crystal curtains, exotic art, stone floors and earthy colors adorn this Penn Quarter jewel. An open kitchen allows you to watch your dinner being prepared in ovens and griddles. A temperature-controlled cellar is stocked with well chosen selections that pair splendidly with the spicy dishes. Rasika’s much written about crispy spinach chat steals the show. The chef’s style is fresh, authentic flavors in elegant style.

Passage to India (4931 Cordell Ave., Bethesda; 301-656-3373)  In India the saying “Yeh to haat ki baat hai” (It is in the hands) is used to describe chefs whose food is delicious.  Chef Sudhir Seth’s cooking proves the saying. In addition to familiar favorites, order the new vegan dishes on the menu – Kaikari Porial, prepared with spiced carrots, or Toroi diye Ghugni, boasting flavorful zucchini; they will not disappoint. Seth’s cooking brings in authenticity and class to each dish. The silky spinach with corn (Saag Makai), the inspired chicken in butter tomato sauce (Murgh Makhani) and the hard to prepare flat Indian cornbread (Makai Ki Roti) all help make this my choice for a true taste of home. The antique maps of the Indian subcontinent on the walls and elegant metal doors with colorful enamel inlays will certainly lead you through a passage to India.

The Bombay Club (815 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-659-3727) Bill Clinton used to call the kitchen of the Bombay Club to order vindaloo and cold beer! Located close to the White House, the Bombay Club is a popular choice for power lunches – Mel Gibson, Maureen Dowd, Tom Friedman or Nelson Mandela may be sitting close by.  Spices are used with restraint in the regional Indian curries, but the flavors flow. Their signature Green Chili Chicken is finger-licking good. Pimm’s Cup and Mango Bellini cocktails stand out. An attentive staff, live piano, Sunday Champagne brunch and tranquil ambience make this a charming place to relax on weekends. Recently, there is a new chef at the helm and the menu is constantly changing and getting better and better.

TOP 3 – Easy on the wallet.

Woodlands (4078 Jermantown Rd., Fairfax, 703-385-1996). Woodlands is one of the few all vegetarian Indian restaurants in the area. They have an excellent Sunday buffet -choices range from traditional South Indian delicacies like tamarind rice and red lentil curry (sambhar) to a Indian street food favorites like pav-bhaji – mixed vegetables cooked over an open skillet and served with warm buns and gol gappas – tiny flour crisps filled with spiced potatoes and chickpeas. Mini rice-and-lentil crepes (dosas) at the buffet are prepared and served fresh at the table. Woodlands also serves a aromatic cardamom tea, a perfect way to end an authentic meal.

Bombay Curry Co. (3110 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-836-6363). The Sunday buffet (around $9) at this reasonably priced restaurant frequently showcases seasonal produce. The tandoori chicken wings forgo the traditional marinade and are prepared with a delicious secret house spice blend. The chicken korma with a sauce of cashews and coconut and the delightful bharta (prepared with sautéing charcoal roasted eggplants, onions and tomatoes) are all worth exploring. This is one of the few Indian restaurants that provides a children’s meal that includes Indian as well as American dishes. The same owners also own Delhi Club in Clarendon which I enjoy having lunch at.

Punjab Dhaba (7263-F Arlington Blvd. Falls Church, VA ,703-698-5262)  Simple down home cooking with no frills and an interior that looks like an Indian college cafeteria. They offer a small buffet with traditional North Indian choices like chicken curry and chick pea masala.  Punjab Dhaba is my personal favorite Monday night take out place - their sizzling tandoori chicken, hot baked naans and scrumptious gulab jamun (milk balls in sugar syrup) make any drab Monday feel worthwhile.

Top 3 Indian Cookbooks, October 2007

I am introducing a new section on my blog called "Top 3 of the Week." It will focus on new books, products, etc that I review for the week.

To launch this section, let's chat about three new Indian cookbooks that have hit newsstands recently.

The first one is Modern Indian Cooking by Hari Nayak and Vikas Khanna with a introduction note from Daniel Boulud. This book is reflective of the charming chefs who wrote it - it is young and flavorful and provides some interesting twists on Indian dishes. I had a lot of fun with it and enjoyed the ease of the recipes.  

I talked with Hari Nayak on his latest --

1.       What inspired you to create this book?

As a professional chef and an adventurous home cook, I often tend to try out different flavors & ingredients in my cooking. I love to cook Indian food but I also like to incorporate my experience and knowledge about other cuisines into whatever I create.  

During this process a new style of cooking was created. I recreate Indian recipes that I cook with non Indian ingredients & my favorite western recipes that I love to cook with Indian ingredients & flavors. Food is all about flavors and inspiration for me. I love to explore the blends of tastes and flavors that occur between different cultural and ethnic cuisines, that is one of the reason that inspired me to write this cookbook.  

2.       How did you and Vikas collaborate?

Vikas and I are very good friends and we share a great professional rapport .I have known him for almost 15 years from the time we were in hotel & restaurant management school. Back then, we were involved in a lot of exciting culinary projects in

India

. When we reconnected in NYC, we worked together, most of which is with Cooking for Life” among others.

“Cooking for Life” is an Award Winning organization, founded by Vikas and me in 2001 with the support of World’s Top Chefs including Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud, Gray Kunz, David Waltuck, Nobu Matsuhisa, David Bouley, and many more. It puts the glittering gastronomic events together to raise money and awareness for different causes around the World. An integral element of our organization is giving back to the community and those in need.

It has been an honor to be a part of this organization as a co founder. I have been the lead organizer with vikas for various fund raising culinary events for causes like Tsunami,

Gulf

Coast

, Katrina and the first ever global cooking series at the wonders of the world "The living Pyramids".

I chose Vikas as my co-author for “Modern Indian Cooking” because our styles and vision match very well. And who could be better to collaborate with than my friend, mentor & a talented chef Vikas Khanna.

3.       What is the difference between modern Indian cooking and say fusion Indian cooking?

I prefer not to use the term “fusion” because it is used very loosely and often includes mish mash cooking without any distinct character. So in essence fusion cooking tends to become confusion cooking. Even though I have used non Indian cooking styles and ingredients in my cooking, the end result is strikingly Indian. There is no mistaking about that. I have created flavor combinations that are very well balanced and round up distinctly Indian.   

4.       Which is your personal fav recipe from the book? Can you share it with me along with a pic so I can post it on the site?

It is hard to pick just one recipe as a favorite, but i picked, Kokan Chili Prawns because, I grew up in the konkan region. Seafood was a part of most meals. I was inspired by the local restaurants, where they use soy sauce to bring out the flavors in most stir fry dishes. This is my take on the local version & it is very simple to make.

Konkan Chili Prawns

SERVES 6

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon, ginger, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 shallots, chopped

10 curry leaves
36 medium prawns, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons cilantro, minced

2 tablespoons dry red chilies chopped
¼ cup low fat yogurt, whipped until smooth

Salt to taste
2 tablespoon scallions, chopped

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or very large sauté pan over very high heat until very hot. Add the ginger, garlic, shallots, and curry leaves and sauté for 1 minute.

Add the prawns and cook just until they start to turn pink, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the soy sauce, lemon juice, chilies and cilantro, and cook, stirring often, 2 minutes longer. Add yogurt and cook until the prawns are just cooked through.

Season with salt. Serve warm garnished with chopped scallions.

My second pick is a book that I endorsed called, "Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts: Recipes and Remembrances of a Vegetarian Legacy by Ammini Ramachandran" It is a book that is for the armchair reader as well as the serious cook. I love her writings and the depth that she provides in all the recipes and the text. The book reflects the author - it is quietly elegant.

I spoke with Ammini about this treasure trove for vegetarians -

What inspired you to write the book?

Like most coastal cuisines, Kerala cuisine is perceived as primarily non-vegetarian. There are many good books about Kerala cuisine; however, most of them predominantly feature only meat and seafood dishes. Except for a few well known dishes, vegetarian food of Kerala remains obscure even to many Indians. I wanted to document the traditional food I grew up with for the younger generation of my family growing up in the United States. This book began as a family journal about the traditions, culture, and cuisine of my home for my sons, nieces, and nephews. After reading the initial drafts, the feedback I received from them, as well as their American friends, was most encouraging - They all wanted to read more about the food and stories about our food. Over the years my journal evolved into a web site -- peppertrail.com -- and now to this book.

What type of food did you eat growing up?

Until I moved to the United States I knew only one kind of food, the simple vegetarian cuisine of my home state Kerala.

Did your kids enjoy the same or did you have to alter recipes to suit their tastes?

My sons enjoy most of the traditional vegetarian recipes as they are. They love hot food and the only alteration I made in recipes to suit their taste was to add more chili peppers. Since they were raised in the United States they also enjoy a variety of other cuisines.

Tell me a little bit about how you selected the recipes?

All of the recipes are for traditional Kerala vegetarian food. Most of them were handed down from one generation to the next in my own extended family. I have included every day dishes as well as dishes prepared at religious, seasonal and family celebrations.  I have also tried to preserve the originality of traditional recipes, and tried to make them accessible to all. Whenever possible, I have given Western substitutes following the traditional recipe. As recipes tell only part of the story of our cuisine, I have included notes on the historical facts and anecdotes associated with several of them.

What are your favorite recipes in the book?

That is a tough question. Let me share f couple of recipes that I prepare often. I guess that makes them my favorites!

Can you share two of them?

Kadala: Spicy Brown Chickpeas

2 cup Indian chickpeas or garbanzo beans

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

2 dried red cayenne, serrano, or Thai chilies, halved, or ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

¼ teaspoon asafetida powder (optional)

12 to 15 fresh curry leaves

2 fresh green chilies (serrano or Thai), thinly chopped (less for a milder taste)

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 cup freshly grated coconut                                                                                             

1 Medium green or semi- ripe mango cut into small cubes         1

1 tablespoon fresh cilantro leaves   

Wash the chickpeas, and soak them overnight. Rinse them in several changes of water until the water runs clear. Place them in a saucepan, and add water to cover. Sprinkle them with turmeric, and cook over medium heat until they are very soft (or cook in a pressure cooker for six minutes or so, following the manufacturer’s directions). Drain well, sprinkle with salt, and set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet, and add the mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds start sputtering, add the halved red peppers, asafetida powder, curry leaves, and green chilies, and panfry. Add the drained chickpeas to the pan, and mix well. Panfry while stirring continuously for a minute or two. Sprinkle lemon juice over the chick peas and remove from the stove.  Garnish with mango fresh coconut and cilantro leaves. Serve warm or cold.

Note: If using canned chickpeas wash them under running water in a colander and drain well. Sprinkle them with salt and turmeric, and proceed with the recipe.

Finally - there is a new book out called "The Bollywood Cookbook" by Bulbul Mankani. A really fun read, this book includes interviews with Bollywood superstars and then provides recipes for their favorite recipes. Find the recipe for Hrithink Roshan's favorite- phrini or Shah Rukh Khan's favorite - tandoori chicken.

All books are available on amazon and at select bookstores.